REED Trailer
Pump Troubleshooting Guide
DISCLAIMER: Official REED Service
Manuals deal with the various aspects of Operation, Preventative
Maintenance, System Care and Maintenance, Component Adjustment, Repair
and Replacement. However, like anything mechanical and due to application
of pumping concrete, the possibility exists that at one time or another
conditions may arise that will cause the machine to malfunction. These conditions may not be as
apparent as a broken part, etc., but recognizing the
symptoms will assist in determining the cause and repair and reduce the
downtime. This Troubleshooting Guide depicted below is designed to
assist you in recognizing the possible symptoms, a probable cause and a
suggested corrective action. The format used identifies a major component
or system and categorizes the potential failure for that specific area
with the symptom. The items listed are based on symptoms and
malfunctions derived from our experience with the REED Pump and from
your calls to our Service Department. It is also our intent to upgrade
this website periodically. Please email any questions or suggestions
for improvement to mike.newcomb@reedmfg.com
1.
CRANKS, BUT FAILS
TO START
2.
DOES NOT CRANK
3.
OPERATING AT VERY
LOW R.P.M.
4.
BOGS DOWN WITH
FULL THROTTLE, FULL VOLUME AND PUMP SWITCH ON
5.
FAILS TO DELIVER
REQUIRED VOLUME AND PRESSURE
6.
EXCESSIVELY NOISY
7.
FAILS TO DELIVER
REQUIRED VOLUME AND PRESSURE
8.
CYLINDERS WILL
NOT STROKE
9.
CYLINDERS NOT
FULLY EXTENDED – SHORT STROKE
10.
MATERIAL
CYLINDERS NOT FILLING WITH CONCRETE
11.
SLURRY IN WATER
BOX
12.
PISTON CUPS
SQUEAL IN OPERATION
13.
S-TUBE DOES NOT
SHIFT PROPERLY
14.
S-TUBE DOES NOT
COMPLETELY SHIFT OVER COVERING MATERIAL CYLINDERS
15.
HYDRAULIC FLUID
GETS HOT
16.
REMIXER WILL NOT
ROTATE
17.
RADIO CONTOLLER NOT FUNCTIONING
ENGINE
1.
CRANKS, BUT FAILS TO START
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
NO
FUEL – fill up fuel tank with a good grade of
diesel fuel. No dirt or particles
·
DIRTY
FUEL FILTER –
replace filter.
·
CLOGGED
FUEL LINE – (a) check and clean in-line
filter (b) disconnect fuel line and air blow clean
·
LEAK
IN FUEL SUPPLY LINE – (a)
check all connections and hoses including the return lines (b) pressure
test if necessary
·
FUEL
SOLENOID - (a) check for voltage (b) remove and see if trigger activates
· DIRTY
INJECTORS – clean or replace injectors
2.
DOES NOT CRANK
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
LOW
BATTERY – check battery output, recharge or replace
·
BATTERY
CABLES LOOSE –
clean and tighten cables, check ground connection
·
IGNITION
KEY SWITCH IS FAULTY –
check power across contacts, replace if damaged
·
STARTER
FAULTY – (a) check
for power at starter (b) replace
3.
OPERATING AT VERY LOW R.P.M.
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
THROTTLE
NOT ADJUSTED PROPERLY –
reset using throttle control
·
THROTTLE
LEVER ON
ENGINE STICKING – (a)
check movement, apply lubricant (b) spring binding – check connection
·
THROTTLE
CONTROL CABLE – (a)
check that cable moves freely when control is pulled (b) check cable
for any kinks (c) check connection at throttle lever
·
RPM
SPEED NOT PRESET PROPERLY – (a) adjust
to correct speed; idle speed 800 RPM (b) maximum high speed no load
(refer to specification sheet)
4.
BOGS DOWN WITH FULL THROTTLE,
FULL VOLUME AND PUMP SWITCH ON
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
DIRTY
AIR CLEANER –
clean or replace
·
DIRTY
FUEL FILTER –
check or replace
·
MAIN
RELIEF VALVE SET TOO HIGH –
readjust as necessary
·
ENGINE
OVERLOADED OR SUBJECT TO EXTREMELY HIGH PRESSURE CONDITIONS – (a) back off (decrease) volume control on
main pump
·
HORSEPOWER
LIMITER ON MAIN PUMP MISADJUSTED (units
with HA10V071 Pumps –
Model B30HP, B40, M40B, 4040B) –
contact REED service at (909) 287-2100
MAIN HYDRAULIC PUMP
5.
FAILS TO DELIVER REQUIRED
VOLUME AND PRESSURE
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
ENGINE
SPEED TOO LOW – (a)
adjust throttle control to full open (b) readjust engine maximum no
load speed to specified RPM
·
VOLUME
CONTROL SET TOO LOW –
adjust control to full on (open)
·
PRESSURE
GAUGE DEFECTIVE - (a) install test gauge to verify (b)
replace if defective
·
LOAD
SENSE VALVE NOT WORKING PROPERLY – (a)
improper adjustment (b) contamination, remove and clean (c) defective – replace
·
PRESSURE
SETTINGS INCORRECT – check
pressure and adjust accordingly (refer to “Adjustment”
section of your pump’s
manual for proper pressures)
·
EXCESSIVE
PUMP WEAR – (a)
loose or worn parts (b) flow test to determine if pump output is
satisfactory
6.
EXCESSIVELY NOISY
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
INSUFFICIENT
OIL – (a) check oil level in tank (b) suction
strainer clogged – clean
·
AIR
IN SYSTEM – (a)
check for vacuum leak in suction line, connection (b) aeration – bubbles of fluid in reservoir
·
EXCESSIVE
SYSTEM PRESSURE (ABOVE PUMP RATING) –
check relief valve operation and setting
·
EXCESSIVE
PUMP WEAR –
loose or worn pump parts –
replace
·
ENGINE
RPM HIGHER THAN THE PUMP RPM RATING –
adjust RPM as necessary
AUXILARY GEAR PUMP
7.
FAILS TO DELIVER REQUIRED
VOLUME AND PRESSURE
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
INSUFFICIENT
OIL – suction strainer clogged – clean
·
AIR
IN SYSTEM – (a)
check for vacuum leak in suction line, connection (b) aeration (bubbles
of fluid in reservoir)
·
WORN
OR DAMAGED PARTS –
replace pump
·
SYSTEM
RELIEF SET TOO LOW OR BYPASSING (IF APPLICABLE) – install pressure gauge in circuit and dead
head. Adjust relief
CONCRETE PUMP PISTONS
8.
CYLINDERS WILL NOT STROKE
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
PUMP
SWITCH IS NOT “ON” – turn to “on” position
·
ENGINE
SPEED TOO LOW –
increase RPM to maximum
·
VOLUME
CONTROL TOO LOW – open
to full on
·
ELECTRICAL
– (a) check fuses (b) check connection to
pump switch, continuity to terminals (c) check for broken wires, dirty
terminals (d) check electrical connection and voltage on main cycle
valve (e) proximity sensor gap too large –
check using key gauge (f) proximity sensor faulty (g) check prox (proximity) switches on machine by passing a
piece of steel under each prox switch with
engine running and pump switch off. S-tube (swing tube) should swing
each time either prox switch is signaled.
·
LOW
VOLTAGE –
check battery, voltage to solenoid main cycle valve
·
FAULTY
BLACK BOX - replace
9.
CYLINDERS NOT FULLY EXTENDED – SHORT
STROKE
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
PROXIMITY
SWITCHES ARE MISADJUSTED – (a) check
that switches are positioned for full stroke – reposition. Do not exceed 200 PSI spike on
pressure gauge when at full volume and full RPM. Pressure spike
indicates cylinders are bottoming out (b) check that both proximity
switches are in identical positions
·
TOO
MUCH HYDRAULIC OIL ON ROD SIDE OF HYDRAULIC CYLINDERS – (a) actuate and hold “TEST”
switch, turn pump switch “ON” and actuate either “CYL A – B” switch until cylinder being extended
bottoms out (full extension). Resume normal operation (b) inspect check
valve on barrel side of cylinder –
clean or replace if faulty (c) cylinder piston seals are leaking -
replace
10.
MATERIAL CYLINDERS NOT FILLING WITH
CONCRETE
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE
ACTIONS]
·
BAD
CONCRETE MIX –
check mix design
·
PUMP
SPEED TOO FAST –
adjust to suit type of mix
·
FAULTY
PISTON O-RINGS/PISTON CUPS –
replace
·
PUMP
OPERATING IN REVERSE –
place pump switch in “FORWARD”
11.
SLURRY IN WATER BOX
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE
ACTIONS]
·
PISTON
CUPS IN MATERIAL CYLINDER ARE WORN OR LOOSE – (a) check tightness (b) replace with new
cups
·
CONCRETE
CYLINDERS EXCESSIVELY WORN – (a)
replace
12.
PISTON CUPS SQUEAL IN OPERATION
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE
ACTIONS]
·
IMPROPERLY
INSTALLED CUPS –
piston plate mounting bolts over-tightened causing piston cups to
distort (*note* - during break-in of new cups, squealing is normal)
SWING TUBE SHIFTING
13.
S-TUBE DOES NOT SHIFT PROPERLY
[PROBABLE
CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
CONCRETE BUILD-UP IN AREA OF
WEAR RING OR WEAR PLATE IN HOPPER –
clean out and remove build-up . Concrete mix is not favorable
or there is an obstruction in the hopper or S-Tube.
·
S-TUBE ADJUSTED TOO TIGHT – loosen large nut at
bellcrank one-two flat turns.
HOWEVER, this only applies immediately after a hopper rebuild. This nut
should never need to be loosened.
·
BINDING CAUSED BY MATERIAL
BUILD-UP BEHIND THRUST RING AND WEAR RING – remove and clean up area – replace thrust
ring if damaged.
·
WEAR
PARTS ARE WORN OUT!
·
SOFT
SHIFT/HARD SHIFT VALVE (IF EQUIPPED) IN SOFT POSITION
·
INSUFFICIENT
LUBRICATION – check and
lubricate shaft housing and outlet housing
·
ACCUMULATOR PRE-CHARGE
PRESSURE TOO LOW – (a)
pre-charge to 1000 PSI (b) replace bladder if pressure does not hold
·
SHIFT CIRCUIT PRESSURE TOO LOW
– (a) check engine RPM (b) check system
pressure – relief to be typically set at 2000 PSI (consult your manual)
(c) check gear pump – replace if faulty . The swing circuit has an
internal leakage problem where the stored pressure in accumulator has
dropped significantly and is at the low end of pressure range when the
time comes to shift S-Tube. Ideally, the swing circuit should hold
pressure for at least 30 seconds before it automatically recharges
(pump not cycling)
·
UNLOADER MANIFOLD – check relief valve cartridge – works
properly free of contamination (b) solenoid cartridge connections –
tight (c) solenoid coil in good condition and shows 12 volts (d)
solenoid spool shifts easily (e) directional control valve in working
condition (f) inspect check valve for contamination
·
SHIFT CYLINDER – SEALS
BYPASSING OIL – (a)
check by disconnecting one of the hoses from cylinder. as example: if rod is extended, disconnect rod side
hose. Pressure barrel side of cylinder. If oil comes out of rod side
port or hose, then seals are bypassing oil. (b) replace seals or
cylinder
·
SWING VALVE NOT SHIFTING
PROPERLY – (a) check voltage to
solenoid, 12 volts or more (b) check for contamination – clean or
replace
14.
S-TUBE DOES NOT COMPLETELY SHIFT OVER
COVERING MATERIAL CYLINDERS
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
CHECK
FOR OBSTACLE IN HOPPER SUCH AS CONCRETE, WEAR PLATE, WEAR RING BINDING,
ETC. – clear obstacle
·
SHIFT
CYLINDER OUT OF ADJUSTMENT – adjust
cylinder rod at clevis. Loosen locknut and turn rod with wrench. Make
sure wrench is placed on flats provided on cylinder rod
·
BELLCRANK
NOT INSTALLED PROPERLY –
disconnect attaching parts and remove bellcrank
from spline –
adjust S-tube and reposition bellcrank on
spline. Reinstall attaching parts, adjusting cylinder
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
15.
HYDRAULIC FLUID GETS HOT
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
OIL
COOLER NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY – (a)
restricted air flow to cooler –
clean outside cooler fins (b) open engine compartment doors (if
applicable) to dispense hot air (c) on electric fan unit, check fuse
and electrical connection, fan rotating in wrong direction, motor
burned out
·
FILTER
ELEMENT CLOGGED –
replace
·
BREATHER
CAP ON
TANK CLOGGED –
remove, soak in solvent, air blow dry
·
SUCTION
STRAINERS CLOGGED –
drain tank, remove strainers, clean or replace
·
RELIEF
VALVE SET TOO LOW – (a) reset
to proper specified pressure (b) replace cartridge if faulty
·
OPERATING
TOO LONG AT HIGH PRESSURE – (a)
use larger size delivery line over long distances (b) mix may be bad
causing higher pump pressure
·
HYDRAULIC
OIL LEVEL TOO LOW – fill
to proper level
REMIXER
16.
REMIXER WILL NOT ROTATE
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
CHECK
CONNECTION OF AGITATOR TO DRIVE SHAFT –
broken or missing bolt
·
FROZEN
IDLER PIN –
remove, clean, and lubricate
·
BROKEN
KEY IN DRIVE
SHAFT COUPLING –
check and install new key or coupling
·
NO
HYDRAULIC FLOW TO MOTOR – (a)
needle valve closed – open
(b) control valve malfunctioning –
check valve operation
·
NO
OR VERY LITTLE OIL FLOW TO CONTROL VALVE – check flow –
replace tandem pump
·
HYDRAULIC
MOTOR FAULTY - replace
RADIO REMOTE CONTROL
17.
RADIO CONTOLLER NOT FUNCTIONING
[PROBABLE CAUSES & CORRECTIVE ACTIONS]
·
BATTERY
NEEDS RECHARGING/REPLACING –
recharge or replace
·
ANTENNA
NOT FUNCTIONING –
check antenna and connections
